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Granberg Mini Edging Chainsaw Mill, Model# G555B

Item# 11874
Granberg Mini Edging Chainsaw Mill, Model# G555B

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Granberg Mini Edging Chainsaw Mill, Model# G555B

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$136.00

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  • Cuts up to 30in. dia. logs
  • Bar length adjusts up to 24in.
  • Fits chainsaw bars between 18 and 36 inches
  • Performs milling and edging functions
  • For use with saws of 50cc or more displacement

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  • Description

  • Key Specs

  • Reviews

  • Q & A

  • Accessories

  • Warranty

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Product Summary

The Granberg Mini Edging Mill is a perfect compact milling attachment for your chainsaw; great for cutting logs into lumber or beams. It also makes an ideal partner for edging with your Alaskan MKIII mill or Alaskan small log mill. Precision cutting for precision edges. Comes with 12ft. of metal guide rail in 2ft. lengths with screws.

What's Included

    (1) Mini Chainsaw mill
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Features + Benefits

  • Cuts up to 30in. dia. logs
  • Bar length adjusts up to 24in.
  • Fits chainsaw bars between 18 and 36 inches
  • Performs milling and edging functions
  • For use with saws of 50cc or more displacement

Key Specs

AttributeSpecification

item#

11874

Brand

Granberg

Manufacturer's Warranty

Lifetime Limited Warranty

Ship Weight

6.98 LB
AttributeSpecification

Product Type

Chainsaw Sawmills

Log Diameter

30 in

Bar Length

24 in

Reviews

Questions & Answers

93 Reviews This action will navigate to reviews.

Questions

1–10 of 26 Questions  
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  1. What is the recomended type of chain?

    1. I have always used a specialized ripping chain. For the extra couple dollars, I prefer the company make it for me (about half of the teeth are turned into scoring) and the actual cutting teeth angles are decreased between 0-15. Might has well have "them" do it. I have followed a timberframing peer and he just cuts down every one to 0-15. That leaves zero scoring, and every tooth is removing much wood. That seems it could leave a bit more chance for binding. I may take a poke at that option just to get a first-hand-experience.

      Helpful?

    2. A ripping chain (chain filed to a 10˚ angle, rather than the usual 25 or 30˚) will give you a smoother cut.

      If you are going to plane the wood or resaw on a table saw or band saw, getting a smoother finish from the ripping chain may not make any difference to you. Contrary to popular misconception, there is almost no difference in the speed of a ripping cut made with a ripping chain versus a regular chain.

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    3. a ripper chain is recommended

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    4. A ripping chain made to the specs of your chainsaw and bar.

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    5. The Granberg Mini Mill is to be used with a ripping chain.

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  2. How is the chain saw attached to the Mini Mill? Will I have to drill holes in the chain saw blade?

    1. No holes needed. The mill has two bolts that friction grips onto your bar. You set those bolts which will pit your bar. My bar has many dozens of pits from these bolts, and it does not hinder the bars performance at all. I actually now need to retire that bar (not from those pits) but from chain wear deep into the bar's groove.

      Helpful?

    2. Chainsaw bar is clamped to the mini mill. No drilling required and no damage to bar.

      Helpful?

    3. No hoes have to be drilled. All of the Granberg mills clamp on to the chainsaw bar. Be certain to get the clamping pad centered in the bar. Failure to do so could lead to crushing the guide channels for the chain thus pinching the chain in the bar and rendering the bar in need of repairs. When using the MK/ Alaskan series mills, be certain the clamp at the nose of the bar does not impeded the relation of the sprocket. If you have a hard one bar, then this does not apply to you. Hope this helps.

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    4. No drilling required. It attaches with two pinch bolts against a flat bar on the mill. It pinches the chainsaw barand is easy to attach and remove.

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    5. The chainsaw does not attach to the mini mill. You do not have to drill into your chainsaw blade. This is a guide for your bar to slide down the lumber to cut the lumber.

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  3. How much of the bar is actually cutting

    How much of the bar is actually cutting so I can figure how long the bar of the saw has to be and how large of a log I can cut?

    1. The amount of bar cutting is variable; depends on how much of an angle you set your chainsaw into the Mini Mill, and depends how large your log will be. The chainsaw can be raised/lowered to different heights into this mini-mill.

      Helpful?

    2. I lost about 2 inches of bar length, because of the mount attaching to the saw bar directly.

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    3. you will lose abut 2 to 2.5 in of bar

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    4. This Granberg Mini Mill will be capable of cutting up to 18" with a 20" bar.

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  4. Do I need to purchase one of the other G700 series mills ?

    I have seen the info in the catolog, it makes a reference to add this mini mill along with a MKll or MKlll. Is it because the other mills do not have the rail system included?. Is it because each compliments the other?

    1. I use both systems on the same timber. You could use this Mini Mill for the entire project, but it would take rotating the timber at least once. It takes experience to get the cuts correct with this MiniMill (if the user's cutting angle is off a little, then a large timber could be up to 1" off at the other end!). I like using the horizontal mill first to shave off the top, use this MiniMill to cut two verticals, then back to the horizontal mill for the remaining cut(s).

      Helpful?

    2. You use leveling rails, or section of an extension ladder affixed to the log and leveled left and right for the MKII and MKIII set ups to make the first level cut. The mini mill compliments the MK series because after the first cut is made, you simply take a level to each end of the log, make a mark on each end, pop a chalk line, and set the V rail affixed 2x6 flush against the chalk line. You want this mini mill cut lined up to be 90 degree square with the first cut. With the mini mill the log doesn't have to moved. If you only have the Alaskan ( MK series ), then you must turn the log 90 degrees, and use a framing square to set the leveling rails square with the first cut to get a square second cut. After this, the log must be turned over 90 degrees one more time to do the third squaring cut.

      Deepening on the size of the log and desired lumber dimensions, you can simply lower the cutting depth of the Alaskan mill for the second cut. Using the surface of the first cut as a guide, you can cut a 13" thick slab by how ever wide. Now you have to roll this 13" thick slab 90 degrees to do the final squaring cut. This is the method to use if the desire dimensional lumber will fall inside the however wide by 13" thick dimensions.

      I wish I could just share a lot of pictures. It would be much more simple. Hope this helps.

      Helpful?

    3. They just compliment each other. You can use it by itself. However if you were going to be doing alot of cutting like making siding you really would want to get a Mark III.

      Helpful?

    4. This Mini Mill makes an ideal partner for the Alaskan MKII or MKIII mill. Use the Mini Mill to edge the logs and then cut the slabs with the Alaskan mill.

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  5. What is deepest cut that I can make using a 20" chainsaw with this mill

    1. When I have one side of log flattened I can cut around 16" max if I take the bumper spike off.

      Helpful?

    2. I would say around 16-18 inches. You can cut as deep as the powerhead will allow. The powerhead just need be kept off of the 2x6.

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    3. You will lose 4"-6" from bar max

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    4. A 20" chainsaw can make a cut of about 16" with this mill.

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  6. How do you make the initial horizontal topcut?

    The guide has to sit on a flat surface. How do you establish this flat surface on the top of the log?

    1. I used a 2x10 to attach the rail to. Then you sager the mounting holes. This firms up the rail and mount on top of the log. I used screws rather than the nails supplied.

      Helpful?

    2. The included instructions actually provide a good illustrated guide for this and all the other cuts. In this case they recommend stabilizing the 2"x6" over the round top of the log with 2"x4" pieces attached horizontally to each end of the log, flush with the top. In this way the guide will not rock. Roll the log so that the edge you just cut is on top and you're off to the races.

      Helpful?

    3. I put a flat board on the top of the log and attached it with short screws. That acted as a flat guide for the attachment. Then just removed the first piece cut off and use the flat surface generated as the guides from there on.

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    4. When setting up for the first cut place the guide rail or plank on the log and secure. The guide rail must project at least 6 inches beyond the ends of the log so that the saw will leave the cut level and even. This basic or first cut determines the accuracy of all later cuts. Make sure it is true and that will help produce the maximum amount of lumber from the log.

      Helpful?

  7. Why is this product limited to a 24 inch bar? Can I use my 28 inch bar?

    1. I am not sure...but I would guess it is a safety guideline so that your log work would not be too tall of a working surface for safe “bar” travel room underneath the cutting blade.
      Longer bars might be OK if you were working on a platform...or you are over 6’6” :-)

      Helpful?

    2. You can use a chainsaw with a bar length of 16'' to 36'' with a minimum of 50cc or more.

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    3. The chainsaw specs are not clear, but it seems you can easily use your 28" bar. Seems you can go up to 36" bar, but I am only 6' tall so I surely wouldn't use such a 36" big-boy chain saw for such a task.

      Helpful?

  8. How many 1 inch boards could I make from a 12 inch log?

    Specifically, once I've cut 6 (ignoring kerf loss) can I still cut any more or once the log is down to the width of the guide board (6") is that as far as you can go, and if not how would it be anchored? Seems like this is great for making posts but not so great for lumber. What am I missing?

    1. It is specifically an edge mill...it is not designed to use for multiple vertical boarding...only the straight edge first or outside edge cuts. You need to use the other Granberg or Alaskan mills designed to make horizontal board cuts.

      Helpful?

    2. When you cut your max with the 2X6 you ride on, do not cut completely through the log, leave about an inch and a half on the bottom portion, reverse your 2X6, cut the other lumber, then rotate the log 90 degrees, and cut the excess off that wasn't cut with the original milling, instant stack of boards. This suggestion was in the how to use the mini mill..

      Helpful?

    3. The number of boards that can be cut from a 12" diameter log will vary with the skill and the ability of the user. This mini mill is best used to create beams that can cut in boards on the one of the lumber mills shown below.

      Helpful?

  9. I need to split 6" to 8' poles to create siding. Will this mill work on wood that small?

    1. If I am reading your question correct, you are seeking to obtain 6" wide siding from a 8' long pole. If your pole is really wide, then yes, this mill definitely will work. However, since your are cutting for siding, I suggest ONLY using the timber's heartwood. That would necessitate a really wide pole.

      Helpful?

    2. It will, IF you attach the pole to another piece for your guide attachment.

      Helpful?

    3. The mini mill would be capable of cutting the 6" and 8" poles in half.

      Helpful?

  10. Are you able to use this to cut a log in half?

    1. In order to cut the log in half, you would need to position your 2X6 that your mill is riding on in a way that this can be completed. I have used this mill for cutting one inch boards regardless of the width of the log.

      Helpful?

    2. This mini mill is not designed for cuttting a log in half. It is for cutting logs into lumber or beams.

      Helpful?

Warranty

Manufacturer's Warranty

Lifetime Limited Warranty

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Granberg Mini Edging Chainsaw Mill, Model# G555B
4.7 out of 5 stars. 93 reviews

Granberg Mini Edging Chainsaw Mill, Model# G555B

Item # 11874

$136.00