Granberg Mini Edging Chainsaw Mill, Model# G555B

A ripping chain (chain filed to a 10˚ angle, rather than the usual 25 or 30˚) will give you a smoother cut.

If you are going to plane the wood or resaw on a table saw or band saw, getting a smoother finish from the ripping chain may not make any difference to you. Contrary to popular misconception, there is almost no difference in the speed of a ripping cut made with a ripping chain versus a regular chain.

a ripper chain is recommended

A ripping chain made to the specs of your chainsaw and bar.

The Granberg Mini Mill is to be used with a ripping chain.

Chainsaw bar is clamped to the mini mill. No drilling required and no damage to bar.

No hoes have to be drilled. All of the Granberg mills clamp on to the chainsaw bar. Be certain to get the clamping pad centered in the bar. Failure to do so could lead to crushing the guide channels for the chain thus pinching the chain in the bar and rendering the bar in need of repairs. When using the MK/ Alaskan series mills, be certain the clamp at the nose of the bar does not impeded the relation of the sprocket. If you have a hard one bar, then this does not apply to you. Hope this helps.

No drilling required. It attaches with two pinch bolts against a flat bar on the mill. It pinches the chainsaw barand is easy to attach and remove.

The chainsaw does not attach to the mini mill. You do not have to drill into your chainsaw blade. This is a guide for your bar to slide down the lumber to cut the lumber.

I lost about 2 inches of bar length, because of the mount attaching to the saw bar directly.

you will lose abut 2 to 2.5 in of bar

This Granberg Mini Mill will be capable of cutting up to 18" with a 20" bar.

You use leveling rails, or section of an extension ladder affixed to the log and leveled left and right for the MKII and MKIII set ups to make the first level cut. The mini mill compliments the MK series because after the first cut is made, you simply take a level to each end of the log, make a mark on each end, pop a chalk line, and set the V rail affixed 2x6 flush against the chalk line. You want this mini mill cut lined up to be 90 degree square with the first cut. With the mini mill the log doesn't have to moved. If you only have the Alaskan ( MK series ), then you must turn the log 90 degrees, and use a framing square to set the leveling rails square with the first cut to get a square second cut. After this, the log must be turned over 90 degrees one more time to do the third squaring cut.

Deepening on the size of the log and desired lumber dimensions, you can simply lower the cutting depth of the Alaskan mill for the second cut. Using the surface of the first cut as a guide, you can cut a 13" thick slab by how ever wide. Now you have to roll this 13" thick slab 90 degrees to do the final squaring cut. This is the method to use if the desire dimensional lumber will fall inside the however wide by 13" thick dimensions.

I wish I could just share a lot of pictures. It would be much more simple. Hope this helps.

They just compliment each other. You can use it by itself. However if you were going to be doing alot of cutting like making siding you really would want to get a Mark III.

This Mini Mill makes an ideal partner for the Alaskan MKII or MKIII mill. Use the Mini Mill to edge the logs and then cut the slabs with the Alaskan mill.

I would say around 16-18 inches. You can cut as deep as the powerhead will allow. The powerhead just need be kept off of the 2x6.

You will lose 4"-6" from bar max

A 20" chainsaw can make a cut of about 16" with this mill.

The included instructions actually provide a good illustrated guide for this and all the other cuts. In this case they recommend stabilizing the 2"x6" over the round top of the log with 2"x4" pieces attached horizontally to each end of the log, flush with the top. In this way the guide will not rock. Roll the log so that the edge you just cut is on top and you're off to the races.

I put a flat board on the top of the log and attached it with short screws. That acted as a flat guide for the attachment. Then just removed the first piece cut off and use the flat surface generated as the guides from there on.

When setting up for the first cut place the guide rail or plank on the log and secure. The guide rail must project at least 6 inches beyond the ends of the log so that the saw will leave the cut level and even. This basic or first cut determines the accuracy of all later cuts. Make sure it is true and that will help produce the maximum amount of lumber from the log.

You can use a chainsaw with a bar length of 16'' to 36'' with a minimum of 50cc or more.

The chainsaw specs are not clear, but it seems you can easily use your 28" bar. Seems you can go up to 36" bar, but I am only 6' tall so I surely wouldn't use such a 36" big-boy chain saw for such a task.

When you cut your max with the 2X6 you ride on, do not cut completely through the log, leave about an inch and a half on the bottom portion, reverse your 2X6, cut the other lumber, then rotate the log 90 degrees, and cut the excess off that wasn't cut with the original milling, instant stack of boards. This suggestion was in the how to use the mini mill..

The number of boards that can be cut from a 12" diameter log will vary with the skill and the ability of the user. This mini mill is best used to create beams that can cut in boards on the one of the lumber mills shown below.

It will, IF you attach the pole to another piece for your guide attachment.

The mini mill would be capable of cutting the 6" and 8" poles in half.

This mini mill is not designed for cuttting a log in half. It is for cutting logs into lumber or beams.