Granberg Chainsaw Sawmill Original Alaskan Small Log Sawmill, Model# G777

I'd say "no." I've been using a 2x10 or a 2x6 for my guide surface, and both have worked well.

The rails will make your first cut level, especially if the log is uneven...

You need rails to make a level cut. If you have an old aluminum ladder it would make a perfect rail system. I built one with 2x2" and 1x3" rungs. Screwed a couple of 3" screws through the rungs to hold it in place.

The rails are not required when purchasing the saw mill. They are highly recommended in order to get the most accurate and consistent cuts.

Torqued bolts. No drilling required

2 independent 5/16" bolts, which pinch the bar to a steel block.

2-bolts clamp mill to bar. Recommend viewing videos on manufacturer's web site.

The saw mill will slide over the bar and bolt down.

yes I used my 14 inch Poulan to cut cedar/rcd7

Yes, no problem. That's one of the saws I have. Because of the length lost in the mounting, you will only be able to easily cut a 10 inch diameter log with the 14 inch bar, so you are a little limited in the log diameter.

Yes, this mill accommodates up to 20" bars so it will work for your 14" chainsaw.

It worked for me. I bought the guide rails to ensure the first cut is level. I cut the top and bottom, rolled the log and set the guide rails and squared them to the cuts I already made. The end result was four sides square to each other. The guide rails are a little pricey, and I did use a ripping chain on my saw.

Yes, the whole milling system is designed to cut with the grain. The chainsaws have no problem doing it as well, specially if the chain is sharp.

This would be perfect for the job you describe. You would make 2 cuts on one side (top and bottom) so they are parallel. Then you would turn it over and make 2 more cuts.

If you really want an accurate square, then there is another mounting bracket for your saw that allows you to cut 90 degrees to a flat edge. So you would make the first 2 cuts as I described, then use the 90 degree mounting to cut the other 2 sides.

The Granberg Chain Saw Mill is designed to make the cut evenly from one end of the log to the other.

There are different methods for the first cut but the way I do it is by using 5" nails (40d bright common). I notch 4 nails and level two on each end of the log. Then pull a nylon string over all four nails making two parallel lines. Then stagger nails down the log the same height as the nail heads. After that, remove the string and place a flat board on the nails. be sure to adjust the thickness of the attachment to cut below the nails. Use the board as a guide for the milling attachment. This is a good method because it is inexpensive, you can mill a log of any length by sliding the board down the nails as you mill, it makes a flat level surface and if you turn the log 90 degrees and make the surface plumb by using a level then you repeat the process for the next cut and you will have a 90 degree edge.

For smooth cuts that do not stray you need to properly maintain your bar and chain. Make the cutters all the same length when you sharpen by using divider calipers and use a depth gauge tool to get the depth gauges all the same height.

Make sure your bar is straight and the grooves are square with the side of the bar. If they are not then use a square and flat file. If the bar groove is worn too wide causing slop in the chain then either use a bar groove tool to bring it back to the proper gauge or use a chain with the next size gauge (.050 to .058). Use a feeler gauge to make sure it is wide enough for the next size.

You would start by placing a straight board mounted to the top of the log. Then make enough cuts until you get down to the width of the board you want to use. At that point you would be able to make straight cuts.

ez supplies two rail lengths, a 9 ft and a 5 ft. you would need a connector kit to couple these, if you opt for more than 9 ft.

The long rails shown are not included. These are the Rail Mill Guides. They are available in 5 foot and 9 foot lengths. They can also be connected together for a longer length, if needed with the connector kit. See these items below.

Till now I have used my normal chain and have had no issues. The chain has to be sharp. Also this is a slow process and this kind of cut puts a lot of strain on the saws which are really great at cutting across the grain - not along it.

I can't see how you could have gotten very far freehand without the mill attachment.

Note that you can buy rip chains for this which have cutting edges that are a lot more aggressive than the normal chain.

Your regular stock chain will work if sharpened correctly. All top angles must be the same uniform angle(25, 30, 35 degrees) and your depth gauges must be at the same height, no more than thirty five thousandths below the cutting edge of the tooth. For better ripping results, re-sharpen your stock chain to zero (0) degree top plate angle from the 25, 30 or 35 degree angle mentioned before. The zero degree top plate angle reduces the power needed to rip and produces smoother lumber than your regular stock chain.

I would not use this mill for logs that wide. This mill is designed for bars 20 " or less, implying that you can only cut a log with a diameter of about 17 " as you lose some length once it is set up.

What you don't want is the tip of the saw buried in the log - it must cut through and stick out the other end. This could be very dangerous if you bury the tip of the saw in this kind of cut.

Please get a bigger mill and a bigger chainsaw.

This chain saw mill is designed to work on logs no larger than 17 inches in diameter and between 1/2 inch to 13 inches thick.

No. I used my regular cutting chain

This chain saw mill does not include a self cleaning chain.

Yes it will work, but you will need to keep an eye on the engine; don't want to overheat it. I started out running a Stihl 011 (41cc) on my Small Log Mill & kept giving it breaks to cool off. Maybe I'm paranoid, but the engine really heats up. I eventually bought a used Stihl MS460 (76.5cc) that is designed to run hard all day. Now I go through logs faster & use less fuel. If you are thinking about buying a chainsaw mill I would strongly recommend a design that supports the entire bar or your boards will be thicker on the chainsaw bar tip side where there is no support on the Small Log Mill. Look at the Alaska Mill III or comparable from other vendors & buy the model that will handle the longest bar your saw can run; in anticipation of a future upgrade. Happy Milling. 1CRAZYLOGGER.

This will work with any chainsaw with a bar up to 20" long.