Pressure Washers Buyer's Guide

Looking for a pressure washer that can handle the jobs you need it to perform, but dont want to overspend for power you may not need? Our Pressure Washer Buyers Guide can help you find the exact model that best suits your needs. See what options are available for Industrial-, Heavy- and Medium-duty pressure washers for all types of applications, from stripping paint to washing windows.

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Gallons Per Minute (GPM)
A pressure washer's GPM rating refers to the water flow during one minute of operation. The higher the GPM, the faster you will be able to clean. See chart below.

Gas-Powered vs. Electric
Gas-powered pressure washers offer the portability necessary for outdoor work while providing higher pressures and flows for more industrial applications. However, gas pressure washers can only be used outdoors because the engines generate carbon monoxide.

Electric pressure washers must have safety features necessary when working near water, such as double insulation and a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). Though limited in overall power, electric pressure washers can be used indoors or outdoors and are quieter than gas-powered washers.

Hot or Cold Water Cleaning
Hot water pressure washers clean faster and more thoroughly than cold water pressure washers. They use less soap to sanitize and degrease, making them ideal for industrial and farm use. Cold water pressure washers are less complicated and are more compact for easy portability.

• Siding maintenance
• Truck
• ATV
• Charcoal grill
• Bicycle
• Fence maintenance
• Paint stripping
• Graffiti removal
• Farm use
• Pavement and concrete
• Brick and block
• A/C coil maintenance
• Roof maintenance

• Reclaim silk screens
• Ranch maintenance
• Windows
• Logs
• Motorcycles
• Lobster traps
• Lawn furniture
• Golf cart
• Airplane maintenance
• Clean steel
• Fish hatchery
• Bread racks
• Floor mats

• Boat
• Deck
• Patio
• Vet kennels
• Driveway
• Paint surface prep
• Semitrailers
• Construction site
• Fire hose maintenance
• Wheelchair
• Pipe/valve maintenance
• Pool maintenance
• Flood cleanup

• Pier maintenance
• Mountain bike
• Gutters
• Bathrooms
• Port-A-Potties
• Green houses
• Waste water cleanup
• Dumpsters
• Monument/statues
• Grill
• Milk carts
• Canopy maintenance
• Elevator maintenance

When do I change the oil and what type of oil do I use?

• First oil change: 15-20 hours or after 3 months, whichever comes first. Following oil changes should be every 200 hours or at least once a year. The oil should be changed, regardless of time, if it is milky-looking or the level is low. (The sight glass is on the side of the pump.) If the unit is being used frequently or commercially, you will want to change the oil more often. It is imperative that the oil is clean and water-free at all times.
• Pumps use a 30-weight non-detergent pump oil. The use of motor oil will result in the oil becoming milky white in color. Units with gearboxes on the pump use 80W-90 gear lube oil. Do not confuse the gearbox with the actual pump when refilling or vice-versa.
• Gasoline-powered pressure washers use an SAE 30W motor oil (10W-30) in the engine. Always consult the engine manual for specific instructions and be careful to put the correct oil in the correct place.

I'm not getting any pressure. What do I need to check?

• Generally, all pressure washers 1,500 PSI or less use a push/pull type nozzle adjustment. Turning the nozzle sleeve adjusts the spray fan pattern. If the sleeve is pulled back, the unit is in low pressure. If the sleeve is pushed forward, the unit is in high pressure. A quick check of the nozzle holder to make sure the nozzle is in place will help as well. The nozzle looks like an Allen screw with a hole in the middle of it.
• For 2000 PSI units and above, use quick-couple nozzles that can be exchanged with each other depending on the application. These nozzles are color-coded for easy use. Black - low pressure and soap injection. Red - 0 degree fan pattern (high pressure). Yellow - 15 degree (high pressure). Green - 25 degree (high pressure). White - 40 degree (high pressure).
• The engine must be running at full speed for the pump to operate properly. If the engine is not running at full throttle, the pump will not be able to produce the proper flow of water to give the pump full pressure.
• Sometimes the keyway may slip out from the engine shaft and pump sleeve. To check the keyway, remove the four bolts that hold the pump to the engine and slide the pump off. A quick visual inspection will verify if the key is in place.
• After a certain amount of use and time the water seals may begin to leak. This is a normal occurrence as the seals are considered a wear item. A seal leak can be confirmed by looking between the pump and the manifold to see if water is dripping down. If so, it is time to replace the seals.

My engine will not start. What do I do?

• Pumps without a pressure release need to have the trigger pulled while starting the engine. Make sure the throttle, gas and choke are all on. If all this checks out, inspect the air filter. If this is soaked with oil, replace the filter along with the spark plug. The last thing to check is the oil level. If the engine has a low-oil alert, just add more oil and the engine should start up. If all the above checks out and the engine will not start, check the yellow pages for a local service center.

I cannot get any soap injection. What should I do?

1. Make sure the nozzle is correctly adjusted for low pressure. (Push/pull type or black quick-couple nozzle.)
2. Make sure the soap injector metering valve is turned on.
3. Make sure that the soap solution is the consistency of water.
4. Make sure that the low-pressure tip is not clogged.

If the above steps are followed to no avail, remove the high-pressure hose and run the pump/engine with the soap injector turned on to see if it works without the hose. If it does, replace the hose, gun, wand, nozzle and tip, in that order, to determine which item is defective.

It is starting to get cold. How do I winterize my pressure washer?
Prepare the pressure washer for storage by running a 50/50 mix of water and anti-freeze into the unit. This will keep the internal parts lubricated, protected from rust, and prevents the pump from freezing. Please use environmentally friendly anti-freeze whenever possible using the following procedure:

1. Mix anti-freeze and water at a 50/50 ratio.
2. Connect a short piece of garden hose (2-3 feet long) to the water inlet fitting of the pump. Use a funnel to pour the anti-freeze solution down the hose.
3. Disconnect the high-pressure hose from the pump, if it is still on the pump. Drain it and store it in a warm, safe place.
4. Pour the anti-freeze solution down the funnel and into the short hose. Start the machine and let it draw the solution through the pump. This can take up to 2 minutes. Shut the pressure washer down when the solution begins to spray from the pump outlet.
5. The machine is now ready for storage. Simply flush it out with clean water when you are ready to begin using it in the spring.

Note: This procedure works best if you have someone to help with the hose and funnel.

My unloader is stuck open. How do I clean it out?

1. Unscrew the large red cap above the manifold.
2. Remove the spring and washer that were under the cap.
3. Unscrew the large brass bolt from the manifold and pull it out.
4. Clean out the unloader valve in warm, soapy water and inspect for any debris or metal burrs. Remove any foreign materials.
5. Flush out the cavity the unloader was in by running garden hose water through the pump. Use a flashlight to inspect the cavity for any debris and clean it out.
6. Reassemble the unloader, taking care not to strip the brass threads. Make sure the red knob is screwed down tightly (hand-tightened).

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