FREE SHIPPING - Northern Industrial Breaker Hammer Kit
pretty good hammer, i had a whole driveway i needed to break up and a huge bath remodel, it did the job, even busted through some 12 inch footings with little effort. i only gave it 4 stars because the case is cheesy and you have to take the handle off the hammer to stow it, also, along side a Bosch there was clearly a power difference, considering it was half the price i'm OK with that.
one note, at first it seemed like the hammer wasn't working but after 10 min or so it loosened up and started busting concrete like i expected.
September 1, 2013
pretty good hammer for the money
I purchased this breaker about two years ago. We use it to drive 1" diameter steel stakes that are approximately four feet long into the ground. The stakes are used to anchor a 52 foot diameter circus tent.
Previously, whenever we needed a breaker, we would rent from the local equipment rental company, but $80 bucks a day was adding up fast and eventually it made more sense to buy.
I sourced this breaker as an alternative to the 60lb name brand units I saw for sale at local big box store for upwards of $1500.
Prior to ordering, I was a little concerned about the quality of the unit, but figured we'd give it a shot; it's proven to be a pretty good hammer for the money. For our purposes, driving stakes, I don't notice any difference in performance vs. the name brand units we used to rent.
One word of experience; the manual states that the lubricant inside the hammer needs to warm up a bit before the hammer will strike with full force. This sounded a bit weird to me, but was absolutely true; the first time we used it, it just chattered away on the stake and didn't drive it an inch. After about 45 seconds, it began to work fine. It still does this each time we use it, although it doesn't take quite as long.
We DO NOT use the included steel. We just slip the breaker right over the stakes we drive, like you would with a manual fence post driver, so I can't comment on the durability of the chisels that are included or the units ability to break concrete. I will say that overall it seems fairly well built - time will tell.
The unit requires you to remove one handle to fit it in the storage case, but this only requires an open ended wrench and takes just a few minutes . We just sourced the proper size wrench and store it in the case.
April 25, 2013
I was going to rent a power hammer/jack hammer from a home improvement store to tear up the concrete pads in my back yard to prepare for pavers to go down. After striking out several times to rent one (too expensive and they were never available), I looked at buying one. Even though I only needed it for the one job, I've found that having it around is great because my friends borrow it as needed and now I'm dreaming up ways to use it. Very powerful motor. It kicks like a mule so be sure you have a good grip on it when you're using it. Since it's not air driven, no fear on busting the air hose. I keep the electric cord draped over my shoulder and it stays out of the way. The cutting head makes short work of even thick concrete. My pads were done 5-6" deep with layers of rebar and this continued to break them up faster than my two rock throwing helpers could remove them from the debris site. Very happy with this hammer and glad I bought instead of rented.
April 24, 2013
Rip out your old driveway.
Yes, you CAN tear apart your 700 square feet of 4 inch concrete. My driveway had no rebar - so your mileage may vary. I did find a surprise near my apron. The last half yard had 6 inches of concrete. And yes, that extra two inches made it much MORE difficult...for a while, anyway...
For that 6 inch work I used the chisel point and broke off 3 inches of concrete at a time. Slow going for the last half yard - less than an hour, or so it felt, - so who cares?. The remaining 95% of the driveway got demo'd half by chisel point, and half by flat chisel. Before getting to that last 6 inch piece, I was very pretty good at turning wide areas of concrete into mosaics that split apart at the seams...practically begging to be picked up and transported to my dumpster!
I bought an extra set of chisel point and flat chisel so as to not lose work time during daylight. I anticipated sharpening the points, at leisure, "after work".
Please consider that both the chisel point, and flat chisel (both provided in the kit) busted up 600 square feet of four inch concrete. You will be very satisfied with the results.
Do not to operate the tool at odd angles and then upright it to force concrete while under load. You will damage the tool and leak lubricant. My best work was done straight on (perpendicular to the concrete), to a slight angle when using the chisel point. And only straight down (perpendicular), when using the flat chisel.
After scoring a line, with the flat chisel, the concrete fractured, along that line. This requires more than one pass. That is, go over your line a second time, and cut thru to fracture.
Let the tool do the work. If it isn't piercing thru your concrete, chances are you need to sharpen your chisel points or are "biting off more than you can chew". Simply move the tool a few inches closer to an edge.
Don't fight the concrete. Don't push the tool down as if you are going to add lots of force. Keep your body clear and hold the tool properly and apply sufficient force to keep control. Let the tool do the work. Your demolition hammer is not designed to make smaller pieces out of small pieces. Saavy? If you want gravel, or dust, use a sledge hammer and get swing'ng.
Too far from a fracture point, pre-broken line or edge? Concrete too thick? The farther away from weak points, or the more dense your concrete is, your impacts will be absorbed by this rock mass.. This situation will require more force than your tool can (or should) deliver. Simply move the tool a few inches closer to the edge, or closer to an existing fracture.
The smaller pieces you bust up, you got to shovel or hand pick and toss into your wheel barrel, and then again into the dumpster. And then again, within the dumpster as the small pieces require reshoveling for mounding. More shovel work will not be kind to your back. When it is time to close the dumpster door, and you have to lift concrete squares into the dumpster, you will appreciate how to "economize" the size of your broken concrete.
When the monoliths I created were a tad too large in area, I used the chisel point to snap it down to size. Or rescored with the flat chisel to make smaller squares. I also easily used my steel bar, and sledge hammer to break concrete, as well. Either way, work the stone to the weight that you care to carry.
For economy sake, learn to use the flat chisel. Create big "squares" to remove. If you can lift it, then you've got the right size. Saavy? It makes trips to the dumpster a little easier on the back. Do not try to make smaller pieces of rubble from small pieces of rubble. And it probably makes sense to remind my fellow NortherTool purchasers to please lift carefully and with proper form! Drink lots of fluids, use safety gear - especially a good quality dust mask, goggles, hearing protection and gloves. Take your time. After all, you've paid for it, haven't you?
I DO NOT recommend running your favorite small gauge xxx foot extension cord previously used for your electric "weed wacker" and plugging this into your utility/house current. You will damage the tool. You will damage the cord, and probably your house!
Read the instructions for rated amperage/rated watts, power requirements (start up and running times), and cord gauge.
I used a properly rated extension cord, and a gas powered generator rated to deliver the wattage this tool requires. Ground your equipment. If I needed to move the tool 10 feet, or so away, I moved the generator, too. Got it?
If you power starve the tool, you will not get the results you expect and probably damage it and hurt yourself.
Buy a matching generator and a rated extension cord, along with that extra chisel point, and flat point. That is what worked for me.
Pack your dumpster well. I rented a 15 yard dumpster.Take time to stack your concrete and be careful. Shovel what you can, up and away to the back of the dumpster. You don't want to be in the dumpster if unstable rock rolls your way! So be alert as you work.
Close the dumpster door, lock it up tight, and toss in what you can to fill. Your hauler will probably charge you extra if you overfill, so be cautious about weight limits. My hauler was specific: no weight limit and don't mix my concrete with trash. I got lucky.
I did have an extra yard to dispose of, but that's another story with a reference to another retailer.
CUSTOMER SERVICE at Northern Tool is a pleasant experience, and should become a model for all businesses, nationwide.
Would I do it over again? Probably, and with a tool from Northern Tool.
December 6, 2011
Ordered this hammer to knockout a driveway and sidewalk. The hammer didn’t work at all. Its makes noise and jumps up a down with no breaking power. I’ve used many different hammers over the year and this one is a piece of junk. A friend borrows it and he got the same results. Save your money on this one.
October 17, 2011
This is a great demolition hammer. I am breaking out an old driveway, and it has sufficient power to break 6" concrete, some with wire and even rebar.
March 23, 2011
I bought this jackhammer to carve a small culvert in some ledge. If the moil point bit is sharp, the jackhammer does very well; however, it only takes about 10 minutes for the bit to completely flatten out. I have repeated the process of sharpening the bit too many times and I'm now looking into finding a hardened steel bit . With a hardened bit, I expect to have very good results with this jackhammer. So far I have about two hours of use and it seems to be holding up fine. After this project, I will be busting down some rocks that are sticking out of the ground.
October 12, 2010
Breaker hammer kit
I live in an area with sandstone about 12" below a clay surface. Digging is nearly impossible. This hammer is great, the first time I used it I was able to dig post holes without much trouble. It would have taken a week by hand. I finished the job in a few hours. For power I used a portable 5.7kW generator at the work site. I have several other digging projects that I have been avoiding, now I'm looking forward to them. I am very pleased with what you get for the money with this item. Good quality for a very reasonable price.
June 14, 2010
I PURCHASED THIS ELECTRIC JACKHAMMER FOR MANY PROJECTS AT OUR NEW HOUSE. THE FIRST WAS REPLACING THE WATER LINE THAT WENT UNDER A 15 FOOT CEMENT-FLAGSTONE PORCH, I USED THE JACK HAMMER TO DRIVE AN 1 1/2 PIPE UNDER AND OUT TO ACT AS A SLEEVE -, IT WORKED VERY-VERY WELL, EASY TO OPERATE AND EASY TO HANDLE - GREAT TOOL. I CAN'T WAIT TO MOVE ON TO THE NEXT PROJECT, BREAKING UP A CEMENT SET OF STEPS IN THE REAR OF THE HOUSE................GREAT TOOL..............
June 2, 2010
Northern Jack Hammer
Arrived quickly and undamaged. Works great in decomposed granite and busting up small sidewalk jobs. Nice to have both bits included too. I have a years worth of work and renting would be much more than the cost to own this jack hammer.
November 2, 2009